The word ‘selvedge’ relates to the ‘self-edge’ of fabric. Selvedge is woven so the fabric’s ‘edge’ can be used in garment construction. In regards to jean construction, using the outer edge of the denim (the self-edge), makes a jean a ‘selvedge’ denim jean. See a finished selvedge jean. Origins of Selvedge Denim Selvedge denim is woven using old-fashioned denim-weaving techniques; most authentically woven on old looms. See finished selvedge jeans. Selvedge looms were popular in denim weaving until the mid-to-late 1900’s. US denim mills began modernizing their machinery to speed production as demand for denim grew world-wide. For these mills, that were focused more and more on increasing output, the use of old selvedge looms became unwanted, making the looms obsolete due to their slower and less consistent production. However, today, selvedge denim has become more desirable than non-selvedge for two reasons: the nuance of the denim weaving techni...
Cord is a woven fabric which has raised ribs on the right side that run parallel to the selvedge. The ribs are formed by cutting the threads in one direction and the result is a hard wearing fabric that’s soft to the touch. The name originates from the French cord du roi and it was originally a popular fabric for French royal servants uniforms in the 17th and 18th centuries. What’s In A Wale? The ribs, or wales, are what gives corduroy it’s distinct quality and the number of wales lets you know what kind of cord you’re dealing with. When you see a wale number given it’s telling you there are that many ribs per inch so the higher the wale number the finer the wales will be. Classic corduroy typically has 14 wales per inch. Sewing With Corduroy Cord is a lovely fabric to sew. It’s stable and doesn’t really require any special handling so it’s a great fabric for beginners. The only thing to think about is those parallel lines…. Make sure you...
Satin Definition So, what is Satin? First and foremost, it is not a raw material. Satin is a type of weave, constructed by floating several warp yarns across the weft before going under 1 weft thread, and beginning the cycle again. Having fewer interlaces leads to the smooth, lustrous surface we all know and love. Satin weave is a more complex weave as the arrangement of warp and weft threads are staggered due to the step number. Unlike a Twill weave, where the weft intersections move to the next parallel warp on the following row, Satin weave structures move the weft intersection across at least 1 warp thread before beginning the cycle again. What is Satin Made From? It depends if you’re a purist or not. If you’re producing a satin weave using filament fibres such as silk, nylon or polyester, then your resulting fabric is a Satin. However, there’s some definitions that insist a Satin fabric can only be made from silk. Now it can get a little confusing......
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